210207 Stovetop Baked Beans

Feb 7

Yesterday was warm enough to sit on the porch and watch the snow falling. Fig preferred to stay in and sleep.

   

The snow gets piled up in front of the house as the plow person keeps our driveway cleared. This snow shovel is my new workout equipment. No lifting just pushing and tipping. 

    

Mumma's Stovetop Baked Beans

When my children were little I developed the practice of making dinner in the morning. At five o'clock, when one might usually begin cooking, I was tired (and out of spoons - although we didn't have that expression then), the children were hungry and needy, the kitchen a disaster area and the house a "tip" of the day's clothes, toys and adventures: laundry, crafts and newspapers. Breakfast and lunch were simple; the ingredients were household staples. Dinners needed more attention to nutrition and variety, timing and shopping, and a lot more work in the kitchen. But if the chicken was cooked, or the vegetables prepped, or if the whole meal was in one pot ready to put in the oven at 5 pm., I could sit down to nurse the baby and read with the toddler when we all most needed a break. I have practiced this organic or ergonomic preparation of dinner every since; preparing and pre-cooking ingredients for supper today, or tomorrow. Maybe that's why soaking beans overnight doesn't seem like such a chore.

I have made baked beans six times now. I am still learning and I am still making them on the stovetop, because I don't have a bean pot for the oven. I started with a recipe on the food site "thekitchn", Québécois Fèves au Lard, or Maple Baked Beans, a guest post from Diana of The Economical Epicurean which she adapted from The Gourmet Cookbook. I couldn't bring the link here, probably because it is guested. However, I wanted a recipe that was basic and made with molasses. So I used this simple recipe and substituted molasses and brown sugar for the syrup. Many modern recipes for baked beans include ketchup and some add other ingredients that wouldn't have been found in a Quebec farmstead kitchen. I discovered as I experimented that the ingredients are just the starting point for learning how to make baked beans. I will one day try some with maple syrup but right now I am enjoying the rich full flavour of the molasses. 

This is the recipe from "thekitchn":

I have tried both "fatback" and "salt pork" and prefer the salt pork because it is meatier. But the fatback might work better when baked. In Québec both of these meats are readily available, but I have never looked for them in Ontario. I tried regular bacon but was not happy with the result. A vegan version is given too, in which they replace the pork with 2 Tbsp of chili powder. 

 

I substitute 1/4 C molasses and 1/2 C brown sugar lightly packed for the maple syrup. I intend to increase the molasses and decrease the sugar now that I have got the process down.  I use 1 tsp Keen's dry mustard instead of dijon, and I omit the salt (more about that later).

In my first batch the beans were still crunchy after all that time and a little research suggested that the beans need to be cooked before you add the other ingredients, and some cooks suggest that acid from vinegar, tomatoes, or ketchup prevents the beans from softening, others say that salt prevents them from softening. Now I cook the beans until they are soft first and then add the rest of the ingredients. 

Before they can be cooked the beans must be soaked overnight. I have used white navy beans and white kidney beans, but I prefer the flavour of the navy beans if I can get them. Rinse the beans and then cover them with 2 or 3 inches of water and leave them to soak overnight. The next day pour off the water and measure 6 cups of water into a large pot and add the beans. Bring to a boil and simmer covered for the time given on the beans package. The navy beans being smaller take less time (30 minutes) and kidney beans take 60 minutes. While they are cooking, chop the onion fine and cut the salt pork into bite-sized pieces. When the beans are soft but not falling apart, add all the other ingredients. I use less salt or no salt. 

I have also found that, perhaps because I am not baking them but cooking them just at a simmer, they take 4 to 5 hours to boil down. When the liquid no longer tastes watery they are done. The liquid thickens as it cools. Many other recipes give longer bake times, some up to 8 hours! 

The first time I made these I thought the pepper was too much but once the beans were done the peppery aroma was gone and just the bite of the pepper was left to give a very nice little kick without which they may taste a bit bland. I have only now come to appreciate pepper, although I have used it in most cooking as a matter of course. I am having to rethink it!

I should add that I double the recipe because it's so much work. The flavour improves on the second day or if frozen. I freeze them in two-serving containers. They make a lovely main course with a salad for afters, or some cooked greens along side. Toast goes well too. Canned baked beans pale in comparison to the amazing complex flavour of these home-made beans. I make sure to start another batch as soon as we run out; I can't bear not having some in case I get a craving!

I think that home-cooked baked beans is not a project for everyone, but I have so enjoyed learning to make them and wanted to share the experience. 

Wishing you well,

Mumma Yaga